These lifts were made in Denver during the 80's and used simple hardware in construction (1-1/2" diameter flat washers, nuts welded as "stops" and clever use of a tubing bender, expander, and reducer with drilled holes and D-rings.
The rear chain is adjusted and then the nuts tightened as:
Left hand (big nut), right hand small nut, 9/16 axle adj. nut and 7/16 adjuster screw. Ditto the same order to loosen pic # 8.
I leave the brake rod connected when moving the chain back,
since that operation is controlled by the adjusting screw
, it will overcome any brake spring tension, and all the load
is put on the left side
. That's OK. When the tightest point of the chain is reached, and the free-play, lifted from the center, is 1/2",
the big nu
t, then the small axle nut
. Don't worry about the right-side adjusting screw
. There'll be a gap between the screw end and axle boss
(because you backed both screws out earlier), because the rear gussets and axle sleeve will overcome any brake tension as well
, and tightening the big nut forces alignment
. The benefit
is having the brake spring tension as a third hand
- steadying the backward travel
of the backing plate
and keeping tension on
that plate lug
that moves in the frame gusset box.
After the chain is tightened, check the brake pedal action
. Adjust the rod if/as needed after removing the cotter key.
• The 50-tooth aluminum rear sprocket has 1,220 miles on it
, and not showing much wear. The gear ratio is perfect
and the bike ridden as low as 35 mph on flat road, or 3rd gear
at 33 mph
and shifting to 4th at 48 mph
is no stress at all.