Duo-Lift and Rear Chain Adjustment & Leaking '58-up "Filter-to-Tank Connection"

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Duo-Lift and Rear Chain Adjustment & Leaking '58-up "Filter-to-Tank Connection"

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Started 11 months ago by Plumber
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Plumber
Key Master
These lifts were made in Denver during the 80's and used simple hardware in construction (1-1/2" diameter flat washers, nuts welded as "stops" and clever use of a tubing bender, expander, and reducer with drilled holes and D-rings.
The rear chain is adjusted and then the nuts tightened as:
Left hand (big nut), right hand small nut, 9/16 axle adj. nut and 7/16 adjuster screw. Ditto the same order to loosen pic # 8.
I leave the brake rod connected when moving the chain back, since that operation is controlled by the adjusting screw, it will overcome any brake spring tension, and all the load is put on the left side. That's OK. When the tightest point of the chain is reached, and the free-play, lifted from the center, is 1/2", then tighten the big nut, then the small axle nut. Don't worry about the right-side adjusting screw. There'll be a gap between the screw end and axle boss (because you backed both screws out earlier), because the rear gussets and axle sleeve will overcome any brake tension as well, and tightening the big nut forces alignment. The benefit is having the brake spring tension as a third hand - steadying the backward travel of the backing plate and keeping tension on that plate lug that moves in the frame gusset box.
After the chain is tightened, check the brake pedal action. Adjust the rod if/as needed after removing the cotter key.
• The 50-tooth aluminum rear sprocket has 1,220 miles on it, and not showing much wear. The gear ratio is perfect and the bike ridden as low as 35 mph on flat road, or 3rd gear is fine at 33 mph and shifting to 4th at 48 mph is no stress at all.
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Posted 11 months ago #
Plumber
Key Master
The front wheel must have a steady-chock. A lot can with be accomplished with the rear wheel securely lifted.
Kerosene and paper towels will clean everything. Costco towels stay together. Two towels folded and soaked will clean an entire side. Chase the kero-wipe with a soft new cotton shop cloth. Start fresh with the paint and end with the rims and sidewalls. The mats are durable and work goes faster with two when working on the ground. I've used these a lot. Inside the shop and on pavement. Grease wipes off. Laminate rubber-cloth bottom.
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202538017/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=martha+stewart+mats&storeId=10051
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Posted 11 months ago #
Plumber
Key Master
This is the same cardboard drip-pan from mile 0. The odometer has 1,289 miles now.
There was a small oil filter adapter leak at the tank, and a rear cover D-ring leak, and several "Diamond" chain drips (wipe it, before you install it, I didn't) that have contributed to the collection - but basically the belt primary "corked" motor is relatively drip-free. The majority of center greasing is from the breather pipe that hangs hidden in the frame interior.
The no-bled backside of a Bradford White, 40 gal., 6-yr., carton going there.
And now on 10-3-12 I've stopped all leaks except for a little from the rear bottom-left side D-ring gasket when it's parked on it's side-stand, and a new 40 x 20 piece of cardboard for drip-detection.
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Posted 10 months ago #
Plumber
Key Master
Leak sourced and eliminated. After HyloMar-ing the threads of the outside-most oil tank nipple for the filter connection (63524-50) 200 miles ago, the leak still appeared as a misty collection of oil that ran down the front of the tank and ended up on the rear muffler.
Ordered new connections (2 pk.) and studied the margin widths between the end of the threads with the old one (right). The leaker connection was made so, because the threads continue to the interior flare on my old one. If any oil got past the flare-seal then the threads would pick it up and create a flow.
The new connection had a slightly wider sealing margin and there is a 1/16" clear margin after the threads stop.
I used Hylomar on the nipple threads with the new connection too. Started the application in back of the first full thread-round and coated the threads 3/4 circumference around the nipple.
Put 35 miles on the bike up the canyon and back by Hwy 101. No leak-streak down the oil tank any more. Muffler is clean. World in order.
Next up.... der knuck.
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Posted 7 months ago #

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Duo-Lift and Rear Chain Adjustment & Leaking '58-up "Filter-to-Tank Connection"

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