Vintage Twin

1. 

   Plumber
   Key Master

   I torque the d-ring screws to 15-inch lbs and the cork gaskets leaked on the rear cylinder at 1,000 miles.
   I bought James steel, silicone laminate gaskets that I'm going to cut in (4) places void the warranty and jump ship into the unknown, as soon as this latest attempt at a tighten-down fails.
   Not shown a Long (5-5/8") x 1/4" Combination to reach the front and rear center interior hex-head screws w/o removing the air cleaner.
   http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/SK-PROFESSIONAL-TOOLS-Combination-Wrench-12C559?Pid=sear
    $9.38 for shipping which brings the total for this wrench to $30.58...So pick it up at the store if it's in stock.
   The 1/4 drive ratchet and 1/4 deep socket are NAPA. The swivel and extension are Pep Boys.
   •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••
   This SK tool arrived from Grainger® today. It turns out to be the only tool you need, as it reaches all of the screws, with only removing the outer filter J-cover. The box-end has a 15% angle.
   Possibly, this one combination wrench was part of a Harley dealers tool box, for this one single purpose. Grainger® # 12C559
   
   Even with the screws tightened, there is a small leak when the motor is running. The leak is between the gasket and the "glass-flat sanded" cover bottom.
   I talked with a James® tech about slicing the steel gasket and attempting to "wrap it around the rear head" as shown in Vol. 1.
   "The steel laminated gaskets are pretty stout", was his comment. "And of course you'd void the warranty".
   The cover indent surface is 0.125" thick (1/8"). The ridge surrounding the gasket bed is 0.170"  and won't pass between the seat post tube and the rear head.
   If I cut the gasket, it will be in two places across from one another in line with the air cleaner, but if I can figure out a way to get the gasket past the seat post, then maybe only one cut.
   I plan on filling the 1/8" kerf (saw gaps) with RTV and letting it dry overnight. That's a loose overall plan. I'm going to watch the drip and see it it continues first, while I plan.
   

   Attachments

   1. Dring-7.JPG (35.2 KB, 0 downloads) 11 months old
   2. Dring-6.JPG (48.1 KB, 0 downloads) 11 months old
   3. Dring-5.JPG (62.9 KB, 0 downloads) 11 months old
   4. Dring-4.JPG (58.7 KB, 0 downloads) 11 months old
   5. Dring-3.JPG (23.8 KB, 0 downloads) 11 months old
   6. Dring-2.JPG (29.9 KB, 0 downloads) 11 months old
   7. Dring-1.JPG (43.7 KB, 0 downloads) 11 months old

   Posted 11 months ago #
2. 

   Plumber
   Key Master

   The ugly drips. 1,478 miles.
   The rear D-ring has been tightened as much as I want to. It's time for splitting the James® D-ring gasket (knowingly voiding my product warranty) in the name of "In Frame Valve Cover Gasket Replacement".
   The leak is an "overflown gasket" type that only flows when the motor is running.
   The couple of new drops in the cardboard are from the center of the frame as the oil falls off the cantilevered lower cyln. head fin, and on to the crankcase and then (see flow pattern) down the left side of the split. Yeah. The cork's gotta go. Front cork is OK, but while it's apart... do both.
   
   
   In order to install the rear gasket, it will need to be cut at the top and at the bottom.
   Since the bike sits on a jiffy stand, the residual oil will pool on the left side of the cover, so the cut in the gasket will need to be between the two screw holes at the bottom section of the rear gasket and at the top, just to the right of that hump where the cover turns back towards the center of the head, then levels off.
   The gaps will be filled with Copper-7 or a heat -proof, direct to metal RTV and careful not to create "straggler ribbons of sealant to plug oil passages". The RTV has to hold back 40 psi of pressure when the oil is cold.
   Wondering.
   

   Attachments

   1. Dring-6.JPG (48.1 KB, 0 downloads) 10 months old
   2. Dring-11.JPG (68.2 KB, 0 downloads) 10 months old
   3. Dring-10.JPG (65.6 KB, 0 downloads) 10 months old
   4. Dring-9.JPG (85.5 KB, 0 downloads) 10 months old
   5. Dring-8.JPG (75.2 KB, 0 downloads) 10 months old

   Posted 10 months ago #
3. 

   Plumber
   Key Master

   Now I'm thinking the rear gasket could be done with one cut on the north end, place the gasket vertical behind the seat post (it's a pass-through fit below the thick D-ring which will be suspended). Then, twist (ha, ha, it's pretty stout) the gasket only enough to clear the rocker bearing (blocks) and the gasket should come back together still aligned, sort of.
   The front gasket will be easier.
   
   ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••
   Informed that the RTV would expand like a balloon, I thought something like an interior insert "crutch-spanner, with a protruded "key" to fill the kerf could be placed inside and glued in place with Pliobond® since it's non-permeable by any solvent or fuel.
   •
   Another mind is giving it some thought.
   

   Posted 10 months ago #

RSS feed for this topic

Reply

You must log in to post.