I torque the d-ring screws to 15-inch lbs and the cork gaskets leaked on the rear cylinder at 1,000 miles.
I bought James steel, silicone laminate gaskets that I'm going to cut in (4) places void the warranty and jump ship into the unknown, as soon as this latest attempt at a tighten-down fails.
Not shown a Long
(5-5/8") x 1/4" Combination
to reach the front and rear center interior hex-head screws w/o removing the air cleaner.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/SK-PROFESSIONAL-TOOLS-Combination-Wrench-12C559?Pid=sear $9.38 for shipping
which brings the total for this wrench to $30.58
...So pick it up at the store if it's in stock.
The 1/4 drive ratchet
and 1/4 deep socket
. The swivel and extension
are Pep Boys
This SK tool arrived from Grainger® today. It turns out to be the only tool you need
, as it reaches all of the screws, with only removing the outer filter J-cover. The box-end has a 15% angle.
Possibly, this one combination wrench was part of a Harley dealers tool box, for this one single purpose. Grainger® # 12C559
Even with the screws tightened, there is a small leak when the motor is running. The leak is between the gasket and the "glass-flat sanded" cover bottom.
I talked with a James® tech about slicing the steel gasket and attempting to "wrap it around the rear head" as shown in Vol. 1.
"The steel laminated gaskets are pretty stout", was his comment. "And of course you'd void the warranty".
The cover indent surface is 0.125" thick (1/8"). The ridge surrounding the gasket bed is 0.170" and won't pass between the seat post tube and the rear head.
If I cut the gasket, it will be in two places across from one another in line with the air cleaner, but if I can figure out a way to get the gasket past the seat post, then maybe only one cut.
I plan on filling the 1/8" kerf (saw gaps) with RTV and letting it dry overnight. That's a loose overall plan. I'm going to watch the drip and see it it continues first, while I plan.